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Climber’s Forum |
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ElCap Report 10/13/08
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Oct 13, 2008, 07:48pm PT
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Topic Author:
elcap-pics
climber
From: Crestline CA
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ElCap Report 10/13/08
By Tom Evans
Yo.. Well now... yeah it was very nice here. Light winds, warm sunlight, comfortable conditions, even in the shade.
The Wall is pretty empty so with this spell of good weather forecast, this might be the time to come on down!! The speed record is in the books and the photographers are heading out. Today's Report is brought to you by the personable and talented Eric Perlman who was here for the speed run on the Nose and will soon depart. I have always found him to be friendly and generous to a fault. Thanks Eric for being an important part of our climbing community.
"That's ElCap over there", Eric tells Ammon.
So uncage the monkeys, toss them the bananas, go hide with your computer so you can come with me to the Captain for some October climbing.
Here it is .... Today's ElCap Report....
Zodiac: The new lead team, Gary and Nate climbed into the White Circle today and was at the start of the Nipple Pitch as I left around 3pm. I think they were going higher today.
Below, the team that fixed two yesterday, Bob and Ryan, were at the top of the 6th pitch when I left. There is another team starting tomorrow I understand. The two guys who came down after the lengthly stay at the top of the Nipple said that they were ill equipped for the cold and that drove them down. Zodiac is getting the attention it deserves.
Getting the kit up to the top of the 3rd on Zodiac.
Climbing in the lower part of the White Circle.
Trip: The team of three guys climbed late into the night and bivied at the top of 6. I saw them climb 7 and 8 this afternoon. They are moving along pretty well. Steady but not fast. There are two teams talking about starting tomorrow but you never know until the bags are hauled to the first belay.
climbing off the top of the 7th pitch on the Trip
PO Wall: Holly and Janet did bail today from the Continental Shelf. They made a very orderly and well managed descent this afternoon.
For their good efforts they get the highly coveted.......
BAIL OF THE DAY!!!!!!!!
Nose: Eric and Roger climbed to camp 4 this afternoon and I think they might just stay there but you never know. The rest of the route is EMPTY.
Salathe: Well, it is hard to keep track of who is going up and who is going down on this Robbins, Frost, Pratt classic. The Montana Boys were seen climbing over the Roof this morning and on to Long Ledge in the afternoon. My guess that they would stay on the Block last night was accurate. The team below them bailed.
There are a couple of teams below the Ear at various ledges. I left too early to tell what their intentions were.
First light on the Salathe Headwall.
The whole damn Montana team on the Headwall of the Salathe. Worst dressed team of the week too!
Never Never Land: I looked over there this morning and this mixed team of 3 was mostly just lying around doing nothing much. Later in the afternoon I did see Lori leading the pitch to Timbucktu. They must be stuck in first gear.
In other news: Hans and Yuji came by the bridge to say Hi and sign some posters for me. Yuji is leaving in the morning. They promised that this last climb would indeed by their last record run. They had a nice write-up in the Chronical today. One would be hard pressed to find two more friendly climbers here in the Valley. They put on quite a show for us and their efforts were well rewarded. Thanks for the memories guys!!
Hans, Tom, Yuji at the bridge today. Eirk Sloan photo.
The monkeys have been put back in their cages now that all the filming work has been completed. Several of the lads made some good coin to be used for adventures later to come.
I went to my favorite tree this afternoon, the Sugar Maple across from the chapel, and found that it has a week or more of colorful display left.
Leaves on the Maple Tree across from the Chapel taken today.
So that's the way it is for this the 13th day of October, 2008.
See you around town... ECP's
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Re: ElCap Report 10/13/08
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Oct 13, 2008, 07:57pm PT
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Author:
Peter Haan
Trad climber
From: San Francisco, CA
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Your All-Time post, Tom. Thanks ever so much.
Best to you, PH
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Re: ElCap Report 10/13/08
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Oct 13, 2008, 08:31pm PT
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Author:
SteveW
Trad climber
From: The state of confusion
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Great Stuff Tom. . .
But it's sad to hear about Holly bailing. . .
I hope she's okay.
The maple was gorgeous!
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Re: ElCap Report 10/13/08
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Oct 13, 2008, 08:31pm PT
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Author:
Bruce Perschbacher
climber
From: Carbonale,Ill. 62901.
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As always Tom, an awesome report. I feel just like I`m standing at the bridge. It`s your reports that keep me going from day to day, till I`m back at the bridge next Spring. Keep up the good work, and all the best.
Cheers!
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Re: ElCap Report 10/13/08
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Oct 13, 2008, 08:49pm PT
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Author:
Blakeb
Big Wall climber
From: Ashland, Oregon
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Yo Tom, my boys, charlie, james, and kevin were all wearing bright reds and oranges today on pitches 7 and 8 of the trip and you did not put any of their pics on your report but instead chose to show us the worst dressed team on the wall(Salathe)!! You always threaten to never take photos of those dressed poorly and reward those wearing your choice bright colors, so what gives?
Not trying to give you a hard time, just itching to see some dope pics of my homies on the Ttrip.
Think you could hook it up tomorrow?
See ya at the bridge, peace bro
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Re: ElCap Report 10/13/08
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Oct 13, 2008, 09:07pm PT
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Author:
Zander
Trad climber
From: Berkeley
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Thanks Tom,
Zander
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Re: ElCap Report 10/13/08
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Oct 13, 2008, 09:09pm PT
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Author:
enjoimx
Big Wall climber
From: SLO Cal
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Tom you Rule!
I took you for granted while I lived in the Valley this summer, but now that im back in school wishing I was climbing...I LOVE YOU!!!!
Hans and Yuji you guys kick ASS!!!
AHHA I WANNA CLIMB NOT STUDY DAMMIT
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Re: ElCap Report 10/13/08
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Oct 13, 2008, 09:31pm PT
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Author:
elcap-pics
climber
From: Crestline CA
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Yo blake... yeah I have a great shot of them that I thought I had put on photobucket but it didnt come through ... I will try again... they are looking good in the pics too. It is on there now... later tom
I am sure Holly and Janet are just fine. Holly has a ton of experience and obviously had everything under control. They put on a clinic if anyone was watching. That bail was steep and difficult and thus they got the bail of the day for a job well done. Others bailed from other routes but theirs was an easy task compared to the girls.
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Re: ElCap Report 10/13/08
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Oct 13, 2008, 09:44pm PT
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Author:
H.Sassone
Trad climber
From: SF Bay Area, CA.
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Thanks for the photo of our daddy! He & his partner is on the lead team on the Zodiac. Daddy says they have 2 more days and one night of climbing.
Anjalia, future climber (2 1/2 years old) & Saviana (8 months)
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Re: ElCap Report 10/13/08
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Oct 13, 2008, 09:54pm PT
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Author:
WBraun
climber
From:
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Why did the PO girls bail straight down? From the "Continental Shelf" you rap towards the "NA" easy street.
Much easier.
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Re: ElCap Report 10/13/08
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Oct 13, 2008, 10:01pm PT
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Author:
elcap-pics
climber
From: Crestline CA
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Yeah I thought so too but maybe they didnt know about it ... something about going straight down, as opposed to slocking down ledges at a low angle with a big set of bags, makes sense...
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Re: ElCap Report 10/13/08
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Oct 13, 2008, 10:12pm PT
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Author:
johnboy
Trad climber
From: Can't get here from there
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Per usual, thanks for the great report.
Also, hats off to Hans and Yuji.
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Re: ElCap Report 10/13/08
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Oct 13, 2008, 11:30pm PT
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Author:
nick d
Trad climber
From: nm
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Thanks as always for the best post of the day, EVERYDAY!!!
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Re: ElCap Report 10/13/08
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Oct 14, 2008, 07:34am PT
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Author:
Tez
Mountain climber
From:
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Another excellent report! Thanks Tom
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Re: ElCap Report 10/13/08
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Oct 14, 2008, 07:57am PT
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Author:
Mark Hudon
Trad climber
From: Hood River, OR
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I'm still amazed at all the junk people haul up walls these days.
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Re: ElCap Report 10/13/08
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Oct 14, 2008, 08:36am PT
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Author:
Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
From: Otto, NC
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No sh#t, eh? I learned to climb walls in the current era and sometimes all the stuff is just completely demoralizing, so much work. One of these days I'm going to see how little I can get away with. I bet the sky won't fall.
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Re: ElCap Report 10/13/08
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Oct 14, 2008, 08:43am PT
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Author:
Gunkie
climber
From: East Coast US
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You bunch of sissy-cakes. Working in a cubicle is where it's at.
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Re: ElCap Report 10/13/08
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Oct 14, 2008, 09:27am PT
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Author:
Lambone
Ice climber
From: Ashland, Or
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"hhhmmmm....well, it's fall so we should bring the rainflys, and our warmer sleeping bags, my foam pad, full gore-tex and more layers, and I need my tooth brush, neosporin, headlamp, radio, extra batteries, whiskey, more wiskey, some beer, more beer, a buncha food...poop tube"
"Well, it's cooler now so we can probly get rid of a water bottle or two...SWEET!"
"Wait, how did we get three full haulbags!???"
welcome to bigwall climbing. If you wanna go light, don't bivi, if you bivi, might as well be cozy and drunk. Thats my moto.
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Re: ElCap Report 10/13/08
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Oct 14, 2008, 09:32am PT
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Author:
Mike.
climber
From:
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Hauling a bunch of sh#t is real work. Climbing walls L&F is easy. Mark, you're a slacker. You don't do either.
Cool report, Tom. Thanks for keeping them coming.
PS: Bone, ck yer email.
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Re: ElCap Report 10/13/08
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Oct 14, 2008, 09:51am PT
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Author:
Blakeb
Big Wall climber
From: Ashland, Oregon
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I agree with the bone of course, i would always rather carry more weight and be drunk, and that goes for anything not just climbing. Why would you ever want to move fast and be sober, what so important that you need to do?
Yo tom, thanks for posting up that pic of my homies on the ttrip steadily sending!!
Blake
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